Sabado, 18 agosto 2012
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| The celestial coronation from el Templo Calvario
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Today has been the first sunny day since I arrived in Cobán, Guatemala two weeks ago. This is the rainy season and I think Cobán receives the tangential rains from the hot hurricanes off the Gulf of Mexico. By the time they reach us, up here in the mountains, they've cooled, but their rains don't seem to relent. The rain is intense. I'm from the Pacific Northwest where it's rainy, but this rain is different. It's torrential. When it rains here, the thunder cracks and the sky opens up. Most houses and buildings here have corrugated tin roofs so if I am enjoying a conversation before the rain arrives, I either shout to the other, comically recognizing how rude the rain is being, or just put it on hold until the rain stops. It's LOUD.
But today is a bit of a reprieve. Today, things are drying out a bit. The clouds have cleared and the brilliant, blue sky is crowning everything. The celestial coronation is in the air. People's spirits are elevated and joyful. It seems like everyone is out-and-about, happy. Today, I saw several mothers walking their young children, who seemed to be taking their first steps, and grandparents returning from the market with their nietos y nietas, ice cream in hand. There is music is in the air, the flowers are Crayola, and the vegetation is lush, rich spring-green. And to magnify and stretch the brilliance of this pocket of the Garden of Eden, there are billowing, white clouds hanging in the arch of the cielo, just above the distant green hilltops.
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| Grandpa and grandson walking down the sidewalk |
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| una calle colorida
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I knew I had to take advantage of this beautiful weather because it'll most likely start raining again later today. I decided to take a 'running' tour of the city. Before I left my hostal, I identified a few spots from The Lonely Planet: Parque Nacional Las Victorias, Templo El Calvario, Casa D'Acuña, Hostal Jam Bamboo.
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| Hostal Misterio Verde |
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| Flowers in the garden |
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| Flowers in the garden |
El parque is a quick jog from my hostal - El Hostal Misterio Verde - so that was my first stop. It's very similar to Forest Park in Portland. There are lots of relatively well-maintained trails and the forest is dense, in its original state. I was aware of the warning that violent crime occurs here de vez en cuando (from time to time), but I felt pretty sure I'd be safe, Aly because it was a sunny Saturday morning and who would want to hang out in the woods?; Bly, because there was a parade on the main streets for Guatemalan Olympic silver medalist, Erick Barrondo, so thieves and hoodlums would want to rob the easy targets in the crowds instead of a solo trekker; Cly, because I'm intimidating and nearly 2x the size of most Guatemalans; Dly, because I think I would take anyone in those woods by surprise - gringo running deep in the woods - creepy?. So I proceeded cautiously. The trails were slightly muddy but awesome. These trails are a treasure and I will definitely be returning. I ran for 30 minutes on the trails, free from diesel fumes and gawking Guatemalans. At the end of my run I got spit out right next to the futbol stadium of Cobán, where I rested and stretched. So Parque Nacional - check...and will return.
At the stadium, I took a seat next to the field and watch a couple kids shoot hoops on a court nearby. After I caught my breath and stopped sweating like a pig (or a scary, bald gringo who just shot out of the woods), I challenged them to a game of HORSE or "caballo". I lost. Not sore about it; I'm pretty comfortable with my lack of bb skilz. But I think the Guatemaltecitos thought they were gonna get schooled by the giant gringo wearing cool Nike gear. Nope. Click HERE for video footage:
El estadio de Cobán
On the way home I took a brief detour UP (arriba, as in "up") 300 or 1000 steps to El Templo Calvario. Beautiful. It was on the top of a loma (hill) and I could see the valley and lush green highlands that surround Cobán, as well as much of the city. Inside, the church was dark and cool, but the light from outside poured in through the windows and doors. The church was filled with lit votive candles, holding vigil to people's prayers. It was serene. The church is cared for by brothers and priests of the Congregation of the Immaculate Heart of Mary.
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| the 300 or 1000 stairs to Templo El Calvario
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| votive candles at El Calvario
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| Looking out the front doors of El Templo Calvario |
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| Templo El Calvario
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| Looking out main doors of El Templo Calvario |
On the way down the stairs I ducked into a little tienda that sold candles. I wanted to know how much they cost because I plan to return to do my own petitioning. El dueno (owner), René, spoke excellent English because he had spent many years in California. I asked him about the candles and he explained that all the different colored candles are for different genre of petitions - money, studies, peace and health, relationship, etc. So, he gifted me a local guatemalan, flavored cigar, and I bought some candles. Now I have a friend. Cool.
Feeling like I had absorbed more than my share of pure elixir, I decided to head home, shower, grab some food and head out for round two. I had gotten an excellent morning of exercise, some radiant (almost) equatorial sun, a beating from the kids...I was good. On my way home, I spotted a sweet little café - De Epocas. It had double garage-doors entrance and folks were sitting at tables enjoying the passer-byers, granitas and treats, and the shade. So I stopped and had me una cappuccino latino...pretty much a coffee-flavored milkshake. Delish. That was my morning. Now out for round two.
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| una cappuccino latino de la cafteria De Epocas
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| The celestial coronation from el Templo Calvario |
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